Recently, information appeared that the draft resolution of the Russian government on the relocation of the Shabolovskaya radio tower was “finalized” and moved from the stage of public discussion to the stage of “anti-corruption expertise”. Apparently, this should be understood in such a way that it has already passed the public discussion, although its results were not announced. Experts, as you know, are categorically against the relocation of the tower, experts are sure that this “relocation” will lead to the loss of the original monument (see the selection of articles and open letters); there are several projects to preserve the tower at the old site. And in the meantime, the formal public discussion has ended, although there is still hope for the victory of common sense. On Thursday, May 29, at 19:00 on Krasnopresnenskaya Zastava Square near the monument to the Heroes of the Revolution (near the Ulitsa 1905 Goda metro station), an agreed rally will be held in defense of the tower, where all those who are not indifferent to the fate of the unique monument of the Russian avant-garde are invited.
For more than two months now, the defenders of the tower have been discussing its fate and the project of a cultural cluster in the Shabolovka area, leading excursions, writing letters to the authorities. Recently, the Shabolovka initiative group and the Zamoskvorechye exhibition hall published a guidebook written by a team of avant-garde historians: with a map, photographs and a story about twenty-four monuments of architecture and engineering art of the 1920s - 1930s located around the tower. With this wonderful book in hand, you can walk around the tower, looking at the remnants of a great life-building project under the layers of the later XX and XXI centuries. The lesson is useful and exciting. The guide can be purchased for 150 rubles at the Zamoskvorechye gallery (Serpukhovskoy Val, 24, building 2). On the eve of the decision of the fate of the constructivist quarter, we publish, with the consent of the authors and the publisher, part of the stories about the avant-garde monuments on Shabolovka. About the area that needs to be preserved. Julia Tarabarina
Travel guide with three applications:
routes of walks along Shabolovka.
Photo by Alexandra Selivanova *** Radio tower
St. Shabolovka, st. Shukhova Vladimir Shukhov
1919-1922
The Shukhov Tower on Shabolovka is a world-famous creation of the brilliant Russian engineer Vladimir Shukhov. The structure of the so-called hyperboloid tower was created by him back in 1896, and the Shabolovskaya radio tower became its tallest structure of its kind.
In addition to its aesthetic novelty, the hyperboloid tower provides tremendous material savings. According to the initial project, the tower was supposed to be 350 m high - 35 m higher than the Eiffel Tower, and at the same time it would have weighed 4 times less than its famous French sister.
The devastation of war forced the tower to be reduced to 150 m, but for a long time it became the tallest building in Moscow and one of its business cards. Another important advantage of Shukhov's towers is ease of assembly. Despite the graceful curvilinear shape, each section is assembled from straight rods that intersect with each other. And in height, the tower grew like a telescope - each section was assembled on the ground inside the previous ones and was raised by winches to the required height.
After the lifting of the fourth section, a catastrophe happened - the section collapsed, damaged the third, two builders were killed. Despite the conclusions of the examination that it was not a mistake in the calculation, but poor-quality metal, that was to blame for this, Shukhov was sentenced to an unprecedented sentence - a conditional execution. To Vladimir Grigorievich's credit, the construction was completed at the highest level even in the conditions of post-war devastation.
In 1922, the tower transmitted the first radio signal, and 17 years later it became the first television tower in the Union. In the minds of millions of Russians, the tower will forever remain a symbol of Russian television.
For the last 10 years, the tower has been owned by the Russian Television and Radio Broadcasting Network, which, by its negligence, brought the cultural heritage site to a pre-emergency state. The task of the entire world community is to preserve this unique monument of architecture and history, an example of the outstanding achievements of Russian engineering for the future.
Ayrat Bagautdinov
Engineering historian, author of the project "Moscow through the eyes of an engineer" ***
Radio base GORZ on Drovyanoy Square
St. Khavskaya, 5
1918-1920
In 1919, by decree of Vladimir Lenin, radio laboratories and a wireless communication station operating on the sites of the former Varvarinsky shelter and the neighboring Drovyaya Square became the basis of a new super-powerful radio station for the needs of government communications. This is how the GORZ radio base (State United Radio Plants) appeared. Between Shabolovka and Mytnaya, along the entire Sirotsky Lane (now Shukhov Street), tall radio masts were lined up (one stood in the center of the field of today's school No. 600, the other closer to Mytnaya).
In 1922, they were joined by the unique radio tower of Vladimir Shukhov. Together with the masts, they worked in a single system, interconnected by a traverse-antenna. As communication technologies developed, the antenna mast was removed, and by the mid-1930s, only the tower remained here. But artifacts from the era of the GORZ radio base can be seen today - this is a well-preserved anchor shoe of the technological stretching of the radio antenna (1918-1919), as well as the remains of other such anchor blocks - on the territory of the field of the 600th school at the corner of Khavskaya, Shukhov and Tatishcheva streets. Each such block is well buried in the ground, cast from high-strength special concrete with a metal bracket with lugs for attaching the extension rods of the radio masts.
Ilya Malkov
Local historian, designer, member of the Shabolovka initiative group ***
House-commune RZHSKT "1st Zamoskvoretskoye Association"
St. Lesteva 18
Georgy Wolfenzon, Samuil Aizikovich
1926-192
It is customary to call it the first commune house in the USSR, but in fact it is a transitional building with residential cells and apartments distributed over several blocks. The project was developed by two architects Georgy Wolfenzon and Samuil Aizikovich. Both had learned their profession before the revolution, one in Odessa, the other in Vilna. Their first approach to the theme of a communal house happened within the framework of participation in the second competition of the Moscow City Council for new types of housing. Already in it, they worked out used on the street. Lestev system with the axial symmetry of a deep courtyard (courtyard) and the placement of cultural and household infrastructure in the central bulkhead of the building. However, it was in 1929 on Shabolovka that this solution acquired all its planning completeness.
The axis of the courtyard here is held by the vertical of the Shukhov Tower, from which the buildings now diverge, like the rays of its radio waves. During construction, Vechernyaya Moskva wrote: “Even unfinished from the facade, this giant house is especially majestic and beautiful. Behind it rises the mesh tower of the radio station. The Comintern that pierced the sky. And it seems that this is one whole: a house, a tower, a blue sky. You can stand and look like in a museum or at an art exhibition. At the same time, the functional logic is obvious here: the non-residential block was placed on the northern side of the site, because in the club room with the stage and in the dining room the sun is not so important, and the nursery, on the contrary, could be oriented to the south, as well as the courtyard itself with the sports ground, a fountain and a treadmill. By the way, a solarium with showers was organized on the roof of the building, and a gym on the top floor - everything for the formation of a healthy lifestyle. The residential part, designed for 600-700 people, included corridor buildings with 230 residential cells (without kitchens and personal bathrooms / showers) and outbuildings with 40 apartments, oriented on two sides for high-quality ventilation and lighting (ceilings 2.9 m, 3- 4 rooms). The construction became possible thanks to the cooperation of future residents. From the memoirs it is known that one of the residents contributed 100 rubles for her cell. Later, the authorities returned these costs, turning the house into state property.
Maria Fadeeva
Architectural journalist, member of the Shabolovka initiative group ***
School number 50 LONO (School number 600)
St. Khavskaya, 5
Anatoly Antonov, Igor Antipov
1934-193
One of the few completed projects of giant schools of the late 1920s. Conceived by the constructivist Antonov, with an asymmetric plan, a tower for astronomical observations and large flowing spaces of recreation and staircases, the project was tactfully "finished" in 1935 by Antipov already in the spirit of post-constructivism. The portico on the facade, columns of a simplified order and caissons in the interiors that appeared then did not spoil the building at all. Now it is one of the best architecture and preservation of the original interiors of schools in Moscow of the avant-garde era. For decades, the school was an experimental base for the Institute of Art Education of the Russian Academy of Education, thanks to which artistic spaces were filled with completely artistic content: architectural, art, music classes, choral auditoriums, make-up rooms …
Alexandra Selivanova
Architectural historian, director of the Avant-garde Center at the Jewish Museum, member of the Shabolovka initiative group ***
House with a shop "Three Little Pigs" St. Mytnaya, 52
N. Porfiriev, A. Kucherov
1932-193
The experimental house of large blocks, the predecessor of the "blocks" of the era of stagnation, was supposed to become an example of high-speed construction, but it took four long years to build. During this time, he managed to "overgrow" a stylish geometric decor: in the main volume of the building, the clear lines of rectangular blocks were emphasized, and the one-story grocery store was "wrapped" in a dashing bend in the spirit of the American streamline. His window was decorated with figures of three pigs from the Disney cartoon, popular in the USSR; old-timers use this name to this day.
Alexey Petukhov
Art critic, senior researcher at the Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts A. S. Pushkin ***
Department store Mostorga (Trading house Danilovsky) St. Lyusinovskaya, 70, building 1
Alexander Boldyrev, Georgy Oltarzhevsky
1929-1931; 1934-193
The Danilovsky department store, like many buildings of the transition period, has two authors. In 1929, the civil engineer Boldyrev designed two symmetrical commercial buildings, closing the residential complex of the Goznak plant from the side of the newly formed Danilovskaya Square. The construction of the right wing, the future department store, began in 1930, but in 1931, when all the country's resources were thrown into industrialization, it was mothballed. In 1934, they decided to finish building the department store, but the initial constructivist project no longer met the requirements of the time. It was entrusted to rework it to Georgy Oltarzhevsky, the author of a number of pre-revolutionary apartment buildings in a non-classical style. However, he gave the department store the features not of neoclassicism, but of international art deco: similar commercial buildings with a rounded corner, a recessed main entrance, covered galleries along display windows and an embossed inscription on the attic can be found in many cities around the world.
A semicircular staircase, illuminated by a large vertical stained-glass window, plays a key role in the interior. The free layout of the floors with a minimum number of supports is a legacy of the original constructivist design.
Natalia Bronovitskaya
Architectural historian ***
School (Construction College №30, "Bauhaus - 30") St. Academician Petrovsky, 10
Daniil Fridman
1935-193
The college occupies the building of a former school, built according to one of the most successful projects of the mid-1930s. Almost a dozen of these schools have survived in the capital, but the project, although it was considered a typical one, was implemented differently each time.
This is a representative building with a symmetrical facade composition, broken in later times by annexes.
Unlike many other implementations of Friedman's project, the building on Shabolovka is not plastered, but the small decor typical of this era is laid out in brick and is quite legible. The entrance risalit is framed by geometrized square pilasters, and on the central part of the façade large square windows, characteristic of Art Deco, alternate with three narrow rectangular openings grouped in three. In the middle of the facade, the date of the building is laid out with whitewashed bricks.
Nikolay Vasiliev
Art critic, chairman of the Russian branch of Docomomo ***
1st Moscow crematorium and columbarium (Temple of Seraphim of Sarov and Anna Kashinskaya)
Donskaya pl., 1, p. 29, 31
1910s-192
Although the New Donskoye Cemetery was already in operation at the beginning of the 20th century, in the 1920s it became the arena of a completely new experiment. Here, in the unfinished church, they decided to arrange the first crematorium in the capital: a specially ordered oven from Germany was installed in the basement, the building itself was redesigned in restrained constructivist forms according to the project of the architect Nikolai Osipov, who, incidentally, is buried here. On the sides of the crematorium, it was conceived to build two buildings of the columbarium (before the war they managed to build only one).
Newspapers glorified "fiery burial", and for the hasty townspeople, cremation quickly became a part of everyday life with a fair dose of black humor. Small cells of a columbarium - a kind of analogue of communal housing for prematurely deceased builders of the new world - today have become unique time capsules and allow you to feel literally in the crowd of residents of pre-war Moscow. Many examples of the design of urns here are real miniature masterpieces of applied art, and all, without exception, are unique historical documents. Since the 1970s, the crematorium stopped working, and in the 1990s the central building was given to the church, and the history of the building, which was not consecrated before the revolution, continued in its original direction.
Alexandra Selivanova
Architectural historian, director of the Avant-garde Center at the Jewish Museum, member of the Shabolovka initiative group ***
Dormitory for students of the Textile Institute ("Commune")
2nd Donskoy proezd, 9
Ivan Nikolaev
1929-193
This is not just a dormitory, but a student commune house, a radical example of social engineering by means of architecture. The commune house was intended for the "party thousanders" - the laboring, mainly peasant, youth mobilized in the university. By the end of the three-year period of study, the student had to become not only a specialist, but also a modern city dweller, having unlearned his old everyday habits.
Built according to the canons of the "modern movement", the building consists of three interconnected buildings. In a wide three-story building there were rooms for communication, a large library where students did their homework (the crenellated roof is the so-called shed lanterns through which the overhead light penetrated into the hall), to which two tiers of small classrooms for individual lessons adjoined (offices were illuminated through tape windows), as well as a dining room and a kitchen located farther from the street. Ordzhonikidze end. The transverse building is hygienic, there were showers and toilets. Entering it, the student climbed the stairs or along the ramp protruding as a tower into the courtyard space, to his own floor (boys and girls lived on different floors), took off their clothes and went to the dormitory, performing hygienic procedures along the way. Putting on his pajamas, he then went to the sleeping cabin, which he shared with a friend. The cockpit area is only six meters, the lack of space was compensated by artificial ventilation. It was possible to stay in sleeping cabins only during the day, and there was supposed to keep only the very minimum of personal belongings: students kept books and everything necessary for study in lockers in the library. Part of the lower floor of the narrow and long dormitory building was occupied by a shooting gallery, and the other half was raised on pillars according to the behests of Le Corbusier.
The wide balconies of the hygienic building and the flat roof were used for morning exercises, and sports grounds were arranged in front of the facade of the dormitory building.
The commune house is in the process of reconstruction, in which the original building is actually replaced by a copy.
Anna Bronovitskaya
Architectural historian, associate professor of Moscow Architectural Institute *** Dormitory of the Textile Institute ("White")
St. Stasova, 10. building 2
First half of the 1930
The building was built at the turn of the 1930s in the shape of a square, compositionally it is similar to the commune house on Lesteva Street - two wings form a tapering courtyard, but it is oriented not to the south, but to the north.
Flanking five-story buildings, pierced by a through corridor, the shift of the sections made it possible to illuminate the corridors through the end openings leading to public balconies. The central part on the south side is framed by balconies with blind concrete parapets, on the north, courtyard - by risalits of stairs, the windows in which are cut in rounded corners facing each other.
Initially, the central, entrance part of the hostel was two-storeyed; a glazed hall was located above the lobby. This gap made it possible to illuminate the courtyard open to the north. However, now the central part has been built up to five floors.
Nikolay Vasiliev
Art critic, chairman of the Russian branch of Docomomo *** Dormitory of the Textile Institute ("Red")
2nd Donskoy pr., 7/1
Among local residents, the entire area between Shabolovka and Leninsky Prospekt is called "Textile": a powerful institute erected dozens of buildings here in the interwar years - a real city within a city. The red-brick building of the hostel is executed with ingenuity and a great sense of style: the extended squares of the "panels" are an elegant echo of European modernism and a reflection of the dream of a typical housing, and the monumental entrance with a huge semicircular window is endowed with an almost palace article. The building, as usual in those years, was left unplastered and has retained its original appearance to this day.
Alexey Petukhov
Art critic, senior researcher at the Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts A. S. Pushkin ***
The guide was prepared by the Shabolovka Initiative Group and the Zamoskvorechye Exhibition Hall. It can be purchased at the Zamoskvorechye gallery (Serpukhovskoy Val, 24, building 2), the cost is 150 rubles.
Reference:
Initiative group "Shabolovka" Is a public association, which includes historians of architecture, cultural managers, journalists, designers, residents of the district, concerned about the fate of the Shukhov Tower and the surrounding buildings of the 1920s-1930s. The group initiates projects aimed at promoting the district as a unique cultural center of Moscow, associated with the heritage of the 20th century avant-garde, and telling about the significance of the tower on Shabolovka as the most important Russian monument of architecture and history. The group sees as its goal the implementation of a permanently operating model of the Shabolov cluster, which unites creative, educational, commercial institutions of the region into a single network.
Exhibition hall (gallery) "Zamoskvorechye" was founded more than 20 years ago on the basis of the creative association "Moskvorechye" in the center of the Khavsko-Shabolovsky residential area, designed in the late 1920s by architects Travin and Blokhin. Initially, the district (now - Danilovsky) was conceived as the anthem of the new post-revolutionary Moscow. Many monuments of constructivist architecture have been preserved here; nearby - the world famous masterpiece of architecture of the twentieth century - the Radio Tower of the architect V. Shukhov. Since 1991, the gallery has organized and held more than 600 art exhibitions in Moscow and other cities in Russia and abroad. The gallery is going to develop local history projects dedicated to constructivism and related to the understanding of the cultural heritage of the Danilovsky district and its popularization.
